geysers.org

For our latest trip to the Island of Hawaii, Kilauea was quiet, and we didn't expect to spend much time in the vicinity. We did spend several days staying at Volcano, where, surprisingly, we never got any rain lasting more than a few minutes. Most of the time spent in the Volcanoes National Park was to see some nene who were frequenting the Pu'upua'i parking lot.

So it was a complete surprise when, on 23 Dec, our next to last day of the trip, we were awakened in the early hours by reports of new erupting activity. Unfortunately, we were staying in Kohala, well over a two hour drive from Kilauea. We got organized as best we could, and headed out just before dawn, at which point the eruption had been going for at least four hours. We took a break in Hilo to fill the gas tank on the car, then made a decision to try and stay an extra day. Turned out to be easier than expected. From the Safeway parking lot, we were able to get a flight out corresponding to our original flight, just 24 hours later. The auto rental company had an automated system that quickly allowed the addition of an extra day. As for where to stay, we'd worry about that later.

As we approached Volcano, we could see the smoke plume from the crater directly in front of us.

We arrived at the Devastation trailhead parking lot around 09:00, where there were still a few open parking spaces. A few days earlier that lot was empty (including nene). Hiked out to the overlook, passing a number of people who were headed in. Practically from the parking lot we could hear the sound of the eruption. At the overlook there wasn't much of a crowd, and there were spaces available for viewing along the rope line.

On the far wall (I later determined this to be about 2.4km/1.5 miles away) were three large lava fountains. Based on the time it took for rocks to fall from their peak, we estimated the activity was at least 80m/275ft high. The lava was bright orange, but the lava lake was mostly crusted over and black. There were a few red cracks visible. These kept changing throughout our time there, and occasionally there was small spurts of red from one of them.

The roaring from the vents varied, and with the distance, it was almost impossible to correlate the activity with the sound.

By the time we left, about six hours later, the weather had deteriorated a bit. It was getting windy and damp, and it was also time to visit the vault at the trailhead. The hike takes about 20-25 minutes, and by the time we got to the car, it had started to actually rain a bit. Not sure what to do, we decided that the rain would be less at the overlook, and while that was true, it was still wet. We headed back to the overlook. The rain and humidity also meant that the crater was now a bit foggy. The activity also seemed to have gotten smaller.

By then we had to make some decisions. Mostly where to stay and how to check out of our place in Kohala. We decided that it made sense to drive back then, pack up and then drive back for some nighttime observations. We could be checked out at least, and worst case, end up sleeping in the car.

As it turned out, the eruptive activity quieted down by the time we reached Hilo, about a half hour later. That was a bit of a relief, as the pressure to put in a lot of driving was now gone, and we knew we weren't missing anything (except seeing the end). We made it back to our place around sunset, and found out that our hosts did not have anyone staying the next night, and were willing to extend us a day, into Christmas. (They also helped our food situation with a gift of some of the day's fish catch, which grilled up nicely.)

So we got a good night's sleep, and the next morning found that there was still no activity. That being the case, we went ahead with what had been our plans for yesterday. That meant going to a location with poor to no cell service, where Suzanne went snorkeling. The day was hazy from the smoke and particles put out by Kilauea, in contrast to the nice clear skies we'd had for the past two weeks. And we did get a bit more organized, just in case.

It was there, shortly after noon, that we learned that the activity had restarted. Time for another change of plans. We went back to our accommodations, about twenty minutes away, and packed up as if we were checking out. If the activity died down again, we could always drive back for a nap, but we believed we were not going to be back, and would be spending the night at the volcano. We were packed up and on the road by 15:00

We arrived back at sunset (about 17:30) and things had changed. The parking lots were jammed, but fortunately we were able to park alongside the road just outside the Devastation parking lot. (As long as you weren't over the white fog line, the NPS didn't care. The day before we did see a few citations handed out to cars blocking the traffic lane.)

The crowd was four deep this time, and spilling over beyond the rope line. I decided that I wanted to see something and joined them for a short time. By then, someone shout out that the NPS was ticketing people, and the crowd quickly got legal, at least for a while.

The activity was comparable to the previous day, but different vents were activity. The most active the previous day was now quiet, with only the middle vent jetting to about 60 meters high. As it got darker, the crowd thinned enough that we were able to finally end up on the rope line and not be blocked in our views.

A lot of people sitting on chairs, for example, left about then, which I found surprising, as nighttime can be fairly spectacular. Only once did we have Skype calls inflicted on us, and a couple had to call all their family members, it being Christmas eve. There were also a lot of people who force their way over the rope line, snap their selfies (using a flash to make sure their pose was visible) and then leave. Later in the night there was one couple who spent the better part of half an hour getting that perfect pose.

The wind started out pretty calm, but picked up once it got completely dark. With the temperature in the low 50s, it made for some discomfort at times.

By midnight things had quieted down a lot, although there was a sudden uptick in people about a half hour later. Probably residents driving up for a quick Christmas selfie. In any case, by about 02:00 we decided we needed to visit the vault. On the walk out, we got to dodge people on skateboard and bicycles, and people playing loud music. On the way back, it appeared we got to encounter these same people a second time. I suppose they stayed out just long enough for that all-important selfie.

Or maybe not. We also discovered that finding the turnoff from the old, paved road to the gravel walkway was not easy in the dark. We missed it and continued on for about 50 yards. We could see fountaining, but not the activity at the base. What helped fool us were the number of lights on the old road beyond the junction. A lot of people were missing that cutoff, it seems.

With a little effort we found the trail, and arrived back to find maybe a dozen people at the overlook. No one else showed up for quite a while, despite all the lights on the old roadway. Not that I minded too much. This group was mostly quiet and spread out, which was similar to our experiences when we visited several years ago.

We set a hard deadline of 03:30 for leaving. That left enough time to walk to the car and drive to one of the empty non-overlook parking lots to remove excess clothing and otherwise reconfigure for the two hour drive. There seemed to be a lot of traffic coming in from Hilo as we left, especially for early on Christmas morning. The drive back over the Saddle Road was a bit of an adventure, as we were both overly tired, and that road, in the dark, is boring, and with little to no traffic this time. But we made it to Kona around dawn. (According to the car thermometer, it was 36°F at the summit rest stop, at 6000ft elevation).

Back in Kona, we found out the hard way that when Costco says they are closed on a holiday, that includes the gas pumps. But fortunately, there was a relatively cheap self-serve station in the same industrial park. We'd intended to pull into the Costco lot to reconfigure our luggage for the flight out, but instead ended up at the parking lot of a Subway we'd remembered from an earlier trip. We also used their picnic table to eat the last of our groceries. That put us at the rental agency almost exactly two hours before our 10:00 flight departure, which meant our deadline at Kilauea had been a good one.

It turns out that about the time we left, that eruption ended. So our hope of seeing a final smoke plume south beyond Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea (which were visible above the clouds and volcanic haze) didn't happen.