Here are a series of prints and photographs showing bridges in the Upper Geyser Basin that no longer exist.
First are a couple of series of lithographs. The Haynes "Souvenirs of Yellowstone" and W.C.Riley's "The World's Wonderland" are similar and different. Both contain many of the same pictures, some of which are still commonly recognizable. Other pictures are unique to that particular publication. Both are fanfolded-- a long strip folded to look like pages, but the Riley is in "landscape" format, wider than it is high, which the Haynes is in "portrait". The Riley was published in 1889, while the Haynes is undated, but was from Fargo, D.T.
Stereoviews document the wide variety of bridges in the Upper Basin.
Next are some photographs. The first two are postcards, while the last two are panoramas over a foot wide.
As a bonus, here's a couple more images from "Souvenir", showing how different some features were back then.
"Waiting for the Splendid" is something that neither I nor anyone else has done this century. While that sput up at Norris may be known for having intervals "from four days to fifty years", Splendid has had intervals from one hour to 25 years, a much larger range. And, unfortunately, it appears that the current 25 year interval is going to get longer.
What does one look for while waiting for Splendid, and what was it like?
Observations of Splendid's activity must be done from the northern walkway. The pool can't be seen from the southern. The only advantage the southern walkway has is that the Giant Platform is visible and any activity over there can be seen.
There are two runoff channels toward the north that pass under the boardwalk. Both would have a trickle of water coming out Splendid's pool. The western one was where Marie Wolf place her marker. Originally a pinecone, it became a stick once the pinecone disappeared. The stick was about 25cm long, and normally would be moved several meters down the runoff during an eruption. But on several occasions, it too would disappear, and need to be replaced.
There was a band of sputs between Comet and Splendid. At least two of them were within the crater itself, one along the wall, the other nearer to the vent. Their activity was only noticeable when the crater was drained. Over by Comet there was at least one good sized sput between the cone and the walkway. Many of these sputs are no longer visible, and the remaining activity seems to be decreased. No variations were ever noted in relation to Splendid and Daisy's eruption cycles. And except after concerted eruptions, Comet didn't show much variation in its activity either.
If those side vent sputs to the west of Splendid's crater ever got a name, I don't remember Marie Wolf ever using it. And they have never varied in activity either.
Activity for Daisy when Splendid wasn't active was fairly consistent. We joked that 3m43s was normal, and that any variation of more than a few seconds was noteworthy. The same held for intervals. Daisy intervals were around 80 to 85 minutes long. As short as 75 wouldn't be considered unusual, and over 90 could happen if it was windy. But consistent variation in interval could indicate that Splendid was perhaps preparing to erupt, especially if the barometer was dropping.
As Daisy erupted, the activity from Splendid calmed down, and the water level dropped. By the end of the eruption of Daisy, Splendid would be down about 30cm or so, and calm. Over the next few minutes, it might have an upwelling of water, but no boiling or bursting. After about five minutes, there would then be a large surge from the vent, as high as a meter, and the crater would quickly fill. Soon Splendid would be back into overflowing down those two runoff channels. As the next Daisy eruption approached, Splendid would drop slightly.
Splendid erupts in series. While some series could consist of a single eruption, it was more common to have about half a dozen eruptions over the next few hours. Some series could last as long as 36 hours.
When Splendid was in an active series, the activity of Daisy could change. Intervals could be as long as seven hours. Some of the solo eruptions during a series could be as short as two minutes, and short and weak, big minors. Or they could last up to five minutes and be quite powerful and tall, which was typical for the solo after a long interval.
There were two windows in which Splendid would erupt to start a series. The first one was about ten minutes after the start of an eruption of Daisy. This was a common time for a big surge as Splendid refilled, and it wasn't usual for there to be a false start during that time. And false starts could build into actual eruptions. Most of these initial eruptions immediately after Daisy lasted about two minutes, and were not known to be particularly tall.
The second window was about ten minutes prior to an eruption of Daisy. If you considered the average interval to be 80 minutes, then this meant that there could be an eruption about 70 minutes after a Daisy eruption. These tended to be stronger eruptions, with durations from three to five minutes.
After the initial eruption, both Splendid and Daisy would quickly refill and become even more vigorous in their activity. A second Splendid eruption could follow within 60 to 90 minutes, or sometimes take several hours.
When the interval was shorter, and the initial Splendid eruption was prior to the expected time for Daisy's eruption, this could result in a concerted eruption. Later in the series, a short interval cold also result in a concerted. Concerted eruptions did not follow a solo Daisy eruption. They seemed to need a solo Splendid to precede them.
Many of the Splendid eruptions came in pairs, the first eruption being about four minutes long, then about an hour later followed by a longer, stronger eruption that usually was in concert with Daisy.
A concerted eruption almost always started with an eruption of Splendid, with Daisy joining in after a minute or so. Daisy could be huge, with a long duration, or it could be weak. In the 1980s, it seemed that the strong eruptions would stimulate Splendid into a strong eruption also. That wasn't the case in during the 1997 activity. Then, when Daisy started, Splendid would weaken, and often quickly finish erupting. There were proportionally a lot more concerted eruptions that year, but they weren't as good.
A strong concerted would cause the entire system to drain, including Comet. No water would be visible in any vent. As it refilled, Brilliant pool would erupt sideways across its pool. A concerted eruption also usually meant that it would be four to six hours before the next eruption in the group, and that eruption was often a solo Daisy. Splendid's intervals would be more in the eight to ten hour range, although I remember getting caught by unexpected intervals in the four hour range.
In the summers of 1986 and 1987, Splendid eruption series did tend to start during low barometric pressure. I kept a barograph running and when the line started dropping, we paid closer attention to the Daisy Group. It seemed like the series usually started when the pressure started to rise back up, even temporarily before a deeper drop. So it wasn't unusual for the series to start in rotten weather, and end up when it was nice.
On the other hand, more than once I spent all my time out there waiting in rain gear. Sometimes we'd wait out at night if it cleared up. But those were cold nights. Once fell asleep in a down bag on the walkway and when awakened a few hours later by some gazers, I had to crack the ice off the bag. The temperature was 16°F. (Because it was a long quiet period, when Splendid did erupt, it had one of the more spectacular concerted eruptions to end the series.)
Splendid has two centers of activity down in its vent-- the "Side Boiler" and the "Main Vent". The Side Boiler is not to be confused with the sputs on the other side of the bridge. It was over the Side Boiler where Marie Wolf once got a temperature of 217°F using a maximum thermometer at the surface.
When Splendid is active, both of these vents can boil up in a full pool to heights of at least a meter. The Main Vent is wider and behind the Side Boiler as seen from the walkway. The Side Boiler activity was considered to be a bad sign, in that its activity never built up into an actual eruption, or even a false start.
An eruption of Splendid starts with the activity of the Main Vent climbing higher than the usual one meter boils. It can slowly build, and at some point the boiling turns into more of a weak jetting. At the same time, the water starts pouring out of Splendid's crater and down the runoff.
The jetting can reach as high as five or six meters, then, about 20 to 30 seconds after the start, it will suddenly stop. This is a "false start", and they were quite common during the 1980s active series. Or the activity would start to climb, slowly over the next half-minute or so to reach the maximum height. In either case, the start of the eruption or false start was the time when the jetting started.
An eruption of Splendid is probably the least noisy of any large geyser. At times, most of the noise comes from the water landing around the vent. Toward the end of a strong eruption that lasts over six minutes, Splendid can start to turn to steam, and get noisier. I never saw them, but in the late 1970s there were eruptions where it had a definite, noisy steamphase that could be heard over by Grand or even farther away.
Currently the activity in the group shows no sign of any shift toward Splendid becoming active. (Yes, it's always possible for a single isolated eruption to occur, especially in response to an earthquake.) The cycle of Splendid responding to Daisy is still there, but muted and not approaching the levels shown in those years.
What's primarily needed, I believe, is for there to be overflow from Splendid, especially as the time of a Daisy eruption approaches. Daisy's intervals need to get shorter, back to under 100 minutes, and Daisy's durations need to be about 20 to 30 seconds longer.
Even when not in an active mode there would be isolated eruptions of Splendid, as was the case during between the activity that died down in 1987 and picked back up in 1996. Many of these solo eruptions were the type right after Daisy erupted, and during springtime. There were at least two Memorial Day weekends where I was in the crowd at Grand and we got to see Splendid, too.
In 1997 there was so much going on, with eruptions of Giant, Fan & Mortar, and Splendid, and Grand still being interesting, that I had to prioritize my attention. I never saw Fan & Mortar erupt that year. The last five burst Grand I've seen was from Splendid, about an hour after an eruption, during the 1997 activity. (Mike Keller was there, too.) As it turned out, I was one of the few to concentrate on seeing Splendid, and if my count was accurate, I saw one hundred eruptions that year. Splendid hasn't been seen since, so I made the right decision.
We were supposed to be in Rotorua, New Zealand this week, but the gov't there doesn't want people visiting. So as an alternative, we spent two weeks on the Island of Hawaii. The second week was spent in and around Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.
The Halemaumau crater in the Kilauea caldera has been showing periodic activity the last few months. Every week or so, the activity dies down for about a day, leading to the pools crusting over because there isn't any new lava being fed into them. There was a pause the day before we were scheduled to arrive, which meant we had a good chance of seeing lots of activity.
It's about 0.7 miles along the old Crater Rim Road to the only legal overlook where one can see the lava from the eruption. The lookout itself is a new roped off area well off the road, and about a mile from the activity in the Halemaumau crater. Since it's a road most of the way, it's an easy hike.
We made a total of six trips out there. The first one was in the middle of the morning, to scout out the location and to determine what and when we should go next. The road itself is still open for a way beyond the turn to the overlook. It takes one past Keanakakoi crater to a couple of old caldera overlooks, but the lava can't be seen them. The road itself is closed due to a wide collapse fissure. So there was no reason to go there again.
We didn't visit the northern rim until several days later, but there too the overlooks didn't have a view of the lava.
We got to the overlook while it was overcast, and over the next hour it cleared, and as it brightened, the activity became harder to see. That first day the view was of a couple of lava pools being fed by a larger, slightly higher vent. There were areas of red visible where the lava flowed most quickly. The first was where there was a drop from the vent to the first pool, the second being the constriction where the second pool was fed. There was also incandescence visible along some of the shoreline. During our hour out there, we could see the crust over the pools crack, and occasionally there would be fountaining from them.
To the left (south) of the vent area were two or three spatter cones, where occasional spurts of red could be seen. I was never able to get a good feel for heights of the activity or the cones, since I had no references and the distance was so great.
To the right (east) was another large area which might have been another lava pool, but other than some steam and smoke rising from a few areas, especially along the shoreline, we didn't see any activity.
Decided our next visit was going to be that night. The moon was at first quarter, so it was easy to walk the road without any lights, letting our eyes adapt. It was a lot like going out at night to see geysers, but much warmer, and no need to worry about bison or bears lurking in the trees. Halfways to the overlook we could see the red glow as the forest turned to open lava fields.
We arrived shortly before midnight, and there were still maybe a dozen people still there. But the flow was mostly in the opposite direction, and by 00:30 we had the place to ourselves. The moon was at first quarter, and set around shortly afterwards.
The activity may have been the same as during the daylight visit, but it was much more impressive. We could easily see the jetting from the spatter cones. The pools themselves were various shades of red, and there were all sorts of red spots on the larger lava lake to the right.
We also saw a lot of lights were there should be any lights, west and southwest of us well up on the crater rim. Probably various groups wandering along the closed road from the other end.
We decided that our next visit would be at dawn a day later. We arrived around 05:00, which is about an hour before twilight and sunrise was at 06:30 (Note-- unlike Yellowstone, twilight at that latitude is short, and sunrise and sunset don't vary much during the year. It's pretty much always 12 hour of daylight and 12 of night.) We arrived with no one there, but people started wandering in almost immediately. As it got light, we got people showing up more interested in getting their own pictures taken than in seeing the lava. At one point we had a who group of "glamor girls" well downslope of the rope line striking various poses and ignoring what was going on behind them.
As it got light, I noticed that not only can you see the summit of Mauna Kea, but a number of the buildings housing telescopes are easily visible without even binoculars. Mauna Loa at night looks like a long, low cloudbank, and both mountains were cloud covered during our previous daytime visit.
The next night time trip was about an hour later, well after midnight. Instead of being alone, this time there were a number of people there. It being Saturday night probably had something to do with the numbers. Either an organized tour, or several large families all appeared shortly after we arrived. They were noisy and despite being there for over half an hour, spent most of their time taking pictures of themselves (with flash) instead of viewing the activity. They were even taking group photos with nothing in the background. There was also one woman who was telling people how to get to the overlooks in the closed area, who kept yammering away like a certain geyser gazer we all know, until another women there said that going out there would be "stupid."
But finally, they all left, it got quiet again. The volcanic activity was pretty much like the other views in the dark. One thing I did notice is that as the moon got lower, it became easier to see the ledges and cliffs down in the crater.
Another advantage to being alone is that one can actually hear the activity. There are a number of fumaroles that are roaring in the distance, and the occasional huffing sounds, some louder than others. All that gets hidden by the noise, not just of people talking, but of people walking on the gravel. It also helps that much of the nights were calm (or at least calmer) with less wind noise. It was hard to correlate the whooshing sounds with activity down in the crater, because we were so far away. I never did figure out exactly what was making it, but I believe it was from the spatter cones acting as vents.
Went out another time at even later so as to avoid people. The final night there was someone leaving just as we arrived, leaving us alone. This time the activity was perhaps the best yet. We could see the lava cascade into the first pool. The spatter cones were frequently and vigorously active. Not much fountaining from within the pools themselves, maybe because there wasn't much to crack. There were also red cracks in the eastern pool, and lots more red spots, probably skylights. I was also seeing what appeared to be a sort of small spatter cone.
Maybe it was from that spatter cone, because this night we heard a new type of noise. It sounded a lot like a deep mudpot. A low bass sound that reverberated and echoed with a definite liquid sound to it.
It never rained on any visit, although this last night the fog suddenly got so thick there was an easily visible moonbow. The steam from vents in the caldera wall, just below the overlook were hard to see most times, but now they were putting up a fog wall helping too obscure the view.
For the daytime trips, and hikes in other areas, we noticed the number of people suddenly increased around 10:00. As in Yellowstone, it appears tourists don't like to get an early start, and the main tourist areas are at least an hour's drive away.
The volcano paused at about the time of our last daytime visit. We hadn't intended to go there, but it was early morning and for some reason, the trailhead we had planned to go to had its gate closed. But because it was before tourist arrival time, the parking lot was half-empty. Could tell something was different with the activity, because in the first, earlier daytime visit (the first one to check out the area), we could see fountaining, and this time wasn't any of that. Found out later that we had arrived at the start of a pause. So we timed things perfectly.
There was some areas of red at the inlets of the pools, but no activity from the cones. I was also able to confirm that there was some sort of cone-like formation where I was seeing the spurts the night before, a cone I don't remember seeing during earlier daylight visits.
During that visit, with several dozen people at the overlook, some guy started setting up his drone. A tourguide told him that was illegal, but the drone operator said that the rangers gave him permission to fly it. Then he had it lift off and fly down in the crater and back. At that point, I walked over and reminded him that he didn't need to see the lava himself, and just down the road there were several viewpoints whose railing were visible where he could launch in peace because no one would go there. The guy actually packed up and left, and a bit later I think I saw him doing just that. I do hope his YouTube videos get so may views that the NPS will ask for a takedown.
We never saw any rangers out there. At some point I figure the NPS is going to have to do some nighttime patrols and make a few examples of people with the lights and drones, or things are going to get out of control. So far the only fatality this year was a 75 year old man who fell over a cliff at the northern closure.
I didn't take much video, and only one still shot. I had to zoom it to x5 or x6 to get any detail, and at that point things are grainy and jump around a lot. If you want to see video, that from a drone is going to be better anyhow.
Today was going to be the start of nine days of visiting the thermal areas in and around Rotorua. That didn't happen, but here are a few old postcard views showing things that, for the most part, we wouldn't have seen anyhow.
This feature, on the west bank of the Waikato River, now lives beneath the waters of Lake Ohakuri to the north of the ferry crossing over to the terraces. In the 1940s it erupted as frequently as every three hours to heights up to 24 meters (75ft).
This card has a postmark from 1905, so it is quite possible that it is showing activity from Waimangu.
A view copyrighted 1902.
This feature is located about 50 meters to the northeast of where Waimangu was located. It currently has an approximate 38 day cycle of rising to overflow for a few days, then falling. It is also now surrounded by much thicker vegetation.
This geyser has not been active in decades, but has at least shown signs of recovery since the shutdown of hot water wells in the area.
One of the features to the right is most likely Pohutu. There are several other features nearby, including Te Horu and Mahanga.
From left to right, it looks like these are Kereru, Mahanga, Pohutu and Wairoa. The view is from the opposite direction of the preceding views, and now what one would first see upon entering through the gate. As with Inferno Crater, there is now a lot more vegetation in the area on the left.
All of the dozens of geysers in the Geyser Valley at Wairakei were destroyed when the power plants started back in the 1950s and 1960s.
* The name translates to "The urine from [Chief] Homai-te-rangi" [Lloyd, Geology and Hot Springs of Orakeikorako, NZ Bulletin #85, pg.59]. We need more names like this in Yellowstone.
Plan on doing several posts featuring views of geysers taken from the 1870s to the 1960s. Many of them are taken from postcards.
The first batch features views of large, rare geyser activity from the 1950s and 1960s.
One of Yellowstone's most spectacular and difficult geysers to catch in play. Erupts at intervals from six to 21 hours for 1 1/2 hours at a time.
A view from the roadway of Giant Geyser, well into an eruption. Most likely from the activity of the early 1950s. Postmark was from 1957.
Its initial grand bursts, sometimes exceed 200 feet in height, and it erupts for about an hour and a half.
A much nicer photo taken in 1954, based on the ID number. Does not appear to be any activity from the platform vents.
A spectacular giant located in the Upper Geyser Basin which erupts to height of 200 feet for durations ranging from 45 to 60 minutes. Shown here at the peak of one of her performances.
This is also a giant postcard, triple the area of a normal card. I remember buying it in the early 1980s at the Lower Hamilton's store.
Ranks currently as Yellowstone's most powerful geyser. In function, it is a typical cone-type geyser with continuous action. The water phase lasts from 25 to 40 minutes and reaches a height of nearly 400 feet. Rocks are ejected during eruptions from inside the crater.
Surprising to find this. A nice view that is not the standard NPS view. The address of the publisher includes a ZIP code, so this must date from the late 1960s.
Fountain Geyser in the lower geyser Basin erupts 50 to 75 feet in heightm draining the pool in the foreground with each eruption.
Looks more like Morning Geyser to me. Again, based on the serial number this was taken in 1951.
This version of the app includes support for the AppleWatch.
The AppleWatch app is not independent, but relies of the iPhone GeyserLog app to talk with the GeyserTimes server. It is intended to be another viewport into the GeyserLog app.
The app's primary screen allows you to choose four of the more common actions: Stopwatch, Recent Activity, Favorites and GrandWait. Double tapping the displayed time will log an Observation to the paired iPhone app, and display that time for a few seconds.
Stopwatch works in sync with the iPhone GeyserLog stopwatch, allowing you to start, stop and pause, on both devices. If you set the feature name on the phone, it will be displayed on the watch.
Recent Activity shows the latest dozen events posted to GeyserTimes. No notes, though.
Favorites shows the latest activity of those features that are shown in the iPhone GeyserLog's Favorites view.
GrandWait allows you to record events and activity without the need for using your iPhone screen in adverse conditions.
There's also a watch-face complication which will take you directly to the watch app, while saving the current time as an Observation. Double tapping on the clock in the primary screen will also save an Observation time, and show it for a few seconds.
A view of Round Geyser in eruption as seen from Geyser Hill, near Depression Geyser. I don't know who took this photo, or remember how I got a copy.
Next are three photos Mary Ann Moss took. Opal was a geyser that she saw several times over the years.
This eruption doesn't look all that big, but note the figure standing on the far overlook at the left. Also, the jet from the big boil is easily well above the rim.
On launch, get the latest eruption for every feature. Also, on upgrade or install, get every eruption for Giant, Giantess, New Crater/Steamboat, and Fan & Mortar since 2017.
Added the option of getting the history for any feature. One month, three months, six months, a year, and since 2017.
Tapping on the location of a feature in the Feature view header will open the Maps app, dropping a pin and focusing in on that location.
Export of GrandWait summary and DetailRecord to a text file accessible through the Files app.
Hiding of notes, comments, and secondary eruptions, allowing the reducing of clutter in longer lists.
Added Recent Users. Can select observer names from list of registered users when submiting an eruption. A list of the most recently used names is kept for reuse.
Added Observations. Many pages now contain a button in the title bar which will save the current time as an Observation. Opening the Observation view shows a list of these, where one can be selected and used to create a eruption or note submission. If so used, the Observation is marked as used. (Although it can be reused.) Observations are also used in the creation of Details (see next section.)
Added Details. Allow the capture of minor non-eruption events at a feature (for example, events with Fan & Mortar vents, or during a Giant Hot Period). Uses Observations to capture time. Each feature keeps a list of the subjects as they are added (for example, Fan vents) for reuse. Second list are the basic event comments. A summary of the details can be made and added as a comment to a GeyserTimes submission, or saved to a text file or the clipboard.
Background updates should work better. Other UI cleanup, crash fixes, and bug fixes.